Chapter 295

The turbulent sea level continues to extend in front of us. The dark blue water is gradually getting deeper and deeper. It's galloping toward the horizon. At the end of the line of sight, you can only see large black areas. It's impossible to describe what kind of abyss is hidden under the deep sea. It's magnificent and magnificent.

There are almost no clouds in the blue sky. The golden sun is shining down vertically without any obstruction. It makes dense ripples on the sparkling sea surface, smearing a layer of light color on each spray, making the roaring ocean transform into a completely different colorful, peaceful and beautiful, as if it opened its arms and gave birth to the origin of life in the world.

But at this moment, an excited voice called, breaking the quiet peace, "here we are!"

A small figure lying on the narrow surfboard, saw the jelly colored waves sweeping in the distance, swivelled his arms and quickly moved towards the waves. Against the background of the vast sea, the waves looked as if they were only fingers high; But compared with that small figure, it is nearly three people high. It should be a huge wave of five or six meters, which is enough to destroy the fragile life.

However, the figure on the ivory surfboard was not afraid at all. Instead, he was extremely excited. He was absorbed in the huge waves in front of him. When the head of the board could feel the rising trend of the wave tip, he quickly stood up, bent his legs slightly, grasped the center of gravity, and then climbed up all the way.

I saw him walking through the mint blue waves. His open arms were like eagles, soaring in the wind. The fresh waves were flying in the air, mixed with golden and blue halos. One by one, they burst open and scattered on his cheek. In a trance, it seemed that the whole person was integrated with the ocean.

The waves rose to the highest point, he also stepped on the surfboard to rise to the highest point, and then penetrated the thin layer of wave sky, the whole person seemed to ride on the waves, the body center of gravity was solid and stable, perfect balance and accurate control made the magnificent sea subject to the surfboard, and the natural gliding became a kind of beautiful enjoyment.

Little by little, the waves flattened down, and the surfboard gradually returned to the sea level. At last, the man standing on the surfboard raised his arms, bent his knees and stood up straight. He cheered and cheered, and his laughter was dancing in the roaring waves.

Paul raised his hands and gave applause. His face was filled with a big smile. Even without any words, his body also expressed his true feelings. He turned his head, looked at his friends surfing together and asked, "is this really his second surfing?"

Andre Hamilton clapped his hand and replied, "you shouldn't have asked me. It's not me who calls lanli crazy. " Andre shrugged, not surprised by the nickname. "But my personal advice is never to try to speculate on his behavior, because he always frustrates you."

There was a hint of ridicule in the words, but his sincerity could be heard, which made Paul laugh and nod. "I agree with that deeply."

"Speed and passion 5" was officially announced a week ago. There was no trouble in the later shooting, and all the shooting went smoothly. Paul has personally experienced the whole shooting process. I really can't agree more with Andre's comments just now. This series of works has come to the fifth, he participated in the shooting of four of them, but never such a shooting experience, really eye opening.

Paul believes that van will agree with him.

After the shooting, Paul chose a quiet coastline according to his habits, had a good time, surf and relax on vacation. It happened that he had the best surfing season of the year.

Every December, waves are the best season in Oahu, Hawaii. At least three international surfing competitions will be held in Oahu at this time.

For Hollywood, this is the opening time of the annual awards season. Few people want to miss the bustling and noisy Los Angeles. However, for Paul, the noise has nothing to do with him, so he won't easily miss the golden age of Hawaii every year.

This time, Paul invited Langley to go with him. At the beginning of "speed and passion 5", they discussed surfing in Oahu. Langley was very active. However, after entering the award season, "buried alive" has shown a good upward trend. In principle, he had better go back to Los Angeles and start the work of public relations of the college.

Paul originally thought that blue will refuse, but he still out of politeness, issued an invitation. Unexpectedly, Lan Li nodded and agreed! So he was lucky to see the scene just now.

At the end of the ride, Langley lies on the surfboard again, sliding with both hands, slowly sliding in the direction of Paul and Andre.

Hawaii in December, the temperature is still maintained at about 20 degrees, warm and comfortable, not the heat of midsummer, but also far away from the cold winter, occasionally under some thunderstorms, such as rain like fog of water vapor let the air flutter restless heat, can not help but want to roam among them, completely relax.

It's a blessing for Langley that he didn't go to Los Angeles, but to Hawaii. He needs a period of vacation. In nearly four months, there is no breathing space for the two consecutive works of "crazy love" and "speed and passion 5". One is a mental overdraft, and the other is a physical consumption. The ups and downs like a roller coaster are really exhausting. He needs to relax his tense spirit, Then you can get back to work.

More importantly, he needs to slow down and enjoy the scenery of life.

Surfing is a wonderful thing. It seems to be integrated with the sea, and it seems to be controlling the waves. The whole person is permeated by the magic of nature, and really releases himself - the wind in his ears, the spray on his face, the flowing waves, and the pull of gravity. Everything is so wonderful that only he can really feel the rhythm of the waves, In order to enjoy the style of freedom on the surfboard.

Just now, it was the first time that he finished the whole wave. There was no mistake, no mistake, no flaw. From the rising period of the wave to the disappearance of the whole wave, he finished the whole process of surfing; Besides, it was a big wave of nearly six meters just now.

It's different from rock climbing. You can feel different limits, but the pleasure and enjoyment of embracing freedom are similar. Lanli finally understood why some people are so keen on surfing and participate in it every day. He's also starting to fall in love with the sport.

"Pa Pa Pa", not only Paul and Andre, but also other surfers applauded and praised blue gift.

This is the East Bank of Oahu Island. Comparatively speaking, it's a relatively private surfing place. Real surfers all know it. If the North Bank of Oahu is a resort for professionals, the east bank is a paradise for amateurs.

The waves here are big enough, but they are not as dangerous as the barrel waves on the north bank. Occasionally, they can meet the top waves five or six meters high. It's really suitable for intermediate and senior amateurs.

Lanli and others are not alone here. On the flat sea near the beach, there are more than ten surfboards on which surfers of different ages sit. When they don't surf, they will choose a farther place to recover their physical strength; But if you're ready to continue surfing, you'll slide to the front waiting area and start waiting for the waves.

Instead of being modest, Langley made a curtain call for the stage play, and then returned to Paul and Andre.

Andre patted the palm of his left hand with the fingers of his right hand. There was almost no applause. He just made a gesture of applause to show his respect and exclaimed, "sure enough, blue gift is still blue gift."

As time goes by, they are no longer children in Eton; However, seeing each other again, Lan Li was still able to make him feel amazing and admired.

It's been several months since the last unarmed rock climbing. I didn't expect that the two people would actually meet again in Hawaii, and they were still in the surfing paradise - another extreme sport. Far away from the aristocratic circle in London, they found something in common, and the bridge of friendship was rebuilt again.

Langley said with a smile, "but Andre is no longer Andre."

This sentence let two people show a shallow smile. Andre bent down, wet his arms with the sea water, combed his messy hair back to avoid the drooping hair blocking the view, and then said to Paul and Langley, "I'm going."

With that, Andre began to paddle with both hands and went to the front area to wait for the waves.

"I've seen before that a surfer is caught in a wave, sprinting up and down in the inner wall of the wave, and needs to fight against gravity..."

Lanli describes to Paul that he experienced the style of surfing when he watched the movie "the robber" in his last life. Actually, he felt more exciting than he thought, but it seems different from the movie.

Paul immediately responded, "that's the barrel wave. That's the most difficult one. As you said, we need to fight against gravity, we need to form inertia, it's not just a matter of balance, it's a matter of great skill. " As for surfing, Paul is Langley's teacher. "I once went to the north bank to challenge. Wow, that experience was really unbearable. I fell blue all over. It was like being beaten for two days and two nights."

The vivid description made Lan Li burst out laughing, "I was a little curious when you said that. Isn't there a professional surfing competition on the north bank tomorrow? What about? Do you want to go and open your eyes? "

Grasp every moment of the moment, cherish every moment of the moment, and deduce a completely different color of life. This is really living.